Deep Cleaning & other tips

http://drtabb.blogspot.com/2012/06/18-ways-to-deep-clean-your-home.html

18 Ways to Deep Clean Your Home

1. Wipe down the legs of all your chairs. Dust tends to accumulate on these.

2. Wipe down all your baseboards with a wet cloth. Follow up my rubbing a dryer sheet on them to prevent dust from sticking. While you are doing this you will find so many tiny weird little corners like these that are so hard to clean! Have mercy on whoever had to install these.

3. Clean behind and underneath all furniture. Move beds, scoot dressers away from the wall and get all the dust that builds up.

4. Dust all fan blades.

5. Wipe down all cabinets in the kitchen and bathroom. Lots of grease and fingerprints build up on these.

6. Wipe down or dust all light fixtures (chandliers, lampshades, etc.)

7. Touch up any spots on the wall with paint that need it. Stir the paint really well first.

8. Recaulk any areas that need it (especially around the kitchen sink, bathroom sink, or bathtub.)

9. Wipe down all blinds. The easiest way is to vacuum them or remove them and spray them down with a hose outside.

10. Clean out the fridge.

11. Clean out your freezer. Discard any old food and organize all that stuff you've thrown in there over the past months.

12. Clean your couch. Vacuum off any pet hair and remove cushions to vacuum.

13. Wipe down door handles and light switches.

14. Clean your microwave, stove top, and oven.

15. Wipe out kitchen drawers. Crumbs tend to collect there.

16. Dust and wipe down the top of your cabinets and fridge.

17. Clean floor vents. Remove metal vents and air registers. Spray them down with hose outside. Vacuum or wipe down the floor around the vents as dust gets trapped under the edges of the vents. If you have wooden vents just vacuum them really well.

18. Wipe down the front and back of all the doors in your house. You will have more doors than you think! I have 18 in my 3 br/2 ba house!

19. wash and/or vacuum the curtains and blinds

20. cleaning the folds of the door seal on my refrigerator

21. pull out fridge and vacuum/ mop under it

22. clean the window screens

23. wash all the walls

24. steam clean the carpet

One sure way to have all that cleaning go to waste is to have screens that are full of lint blocking out the sunshine. Vinegar and water clean off the dust and grease quickly.

wipe down or clean out closets shelves and inside cabinets, clean ashes out of fireplaces if you have a fireplace, shampoo carpets, wash and/or polish linoleum or hardwood floors and wash windows.

Homemade Dusting Spray

1 cup white vinegar
1/2 teaspoon olive oil
3 cups water

Pour all three ingredients into an empty spray bottle. Shake well and spritz on furniture. Wipe with an old cotton t-shirt. Done!

If you feel like you’re missing out on a lemony scent, you can chop a lemon and drop it into a small saucepan of simmering water. Feel free to also toss in a few springs of rosemary and your home will smell naturally fresh!

http://www.familyhandyman.com/diy-projects/cleaning/interior-cleaning/top-10-household-cleaning-tips-the-tough-problems
Use these tips to simplify your housecleaning—and save time and effort.

Speed clean chandeliers
• Use chandelier cleaning spray
  Cleaning a chandelier the old-fashioned way—spraying and wiping each piece by hand—takes forever. And it doesn't help that you're standing on a ladder. Want an easier way? Try a spray-on chandelier cleaner. First spread a plastic tarp on the floor under the chandelier to catch the drips. Then turn off the light and spray the solution on the chandelier until liquid beads start to run (you'll use a lot of spray, but it beats wiping). The spray rinses off the dust. The solution that's left evaporates quickly and doesn't leave water spots. The spray works well on hanging crystals, but don't expect it to remove dust from crevices. Buy it for $10 from nancysilver.com or chandelierparts.com.

Cut grease with a hot rag
• Heat sponge in the microwave first
  Grease and dirt build up on kitchen cabinets over time. To clean your cabinets, first heat a slightly damp sponge or cloth in the microwave for 20 to 30 seconds until it's hot. Put on a pair of rubber gloves, spray the cabinets with an all-purpose cleaner containing orange oil ($4), then wipe off the cleaner with the hot sponge.
• Wipe cabinets with all purpose cleaner
  For stubborn spots, let the cleaner sit for five minutes first. Wipe in the direction of the wood grain. Rinse and reheat the sponge as it becomes saturated. Then wipe the cabinets with a cool, damp cloth. The orange oil leaves a shiny coating. This works for any wood or metal surface.

Scum-proof your shower doors
• Treat doors with water repellent product
  Keeping shower doors clean and streak free is a challenge—unless you know the pros' secrets. Start by cleaning any mold, mildew or streaks off the glass with a glass cleaner. Use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser ($1) to get into the cracks in textured glass. Scrape off tough buildup with a razor blade. Dry the doors with a cloth.
  
  Treat the doors with a product like Aquapel ($8; autobodydepot.com) or Rain-X ($5 at auto parts stores and home centers). These glass treatments form an invisible film on the glass to increase water repellency, causing water and soap to bead up and run off the glass. (Squeegee off the water after bathing to keep soap scum from building up again.) Spray or wipe on the glass treatment, then wipe it off with a microfiber cloth. Overspray won't harm surrounding surfaces. The products repel water for six months.

Clean hard floors faster
• Toss your mop and bucket
  Every pro we talked to was a big fan of Swiffer Sweeper products, particularly the Wet Jet ($20). It lets you throw away the traditional mop and bucket and clean your hard floors in less time and in a more sanitary way (mops are often full of bacteria, which get spread on the floor during cleaning). Three cleaning solutions (for different floor types) are available for the battery-powered Wet Jet. The solution is automatically sprayed onto the floor with the push of a button. Disposable, textured pads absorb the spray as they clean. Since the Wet Jet is very portable, it's great for spot-cleaning spills. The downside is that it doesn't work as well as a mop on extremely dirty floors or on mud that gets tracked into the house.

Switch to microfiber cloths
• Don't use cotton rags or paper towels
  Throw out the old cotton rags and the paper towels and use microfiber cloths instead. These cloths are composed of ultrafine synthetic fibers that are woven together to create a “microfiber.” The fibers rub together during cleaning, creating a static charge that attracts dirt and dust, so you can tackle dusting chores without using sprays or chemicals (although you can still use them if you want). The tiny fibers have sharp edges that scour well, but they aren't abrasive, so they won't scratch surfaces. Use the cloths for cleaning appliances, sinks, and TV and computer monitors, and for drying dishes, washing windows and any other chore that requires a cloth (wet or dry). Microfiber cloths ($20 for a 10-pack at discount stores) leave a streak- and lint-free finish, are very absorbent, and can be washed and reused.

Blow out the garage
• Ditch the broom
  Forget the broom—clean out the garage with a leaf blower. It's fast (about five minutes), you don't have to move heavy stuff, and you can clean work surfaces and shelves along with the floor. First put away papers or anything else that you don't want blown away. Open the overhead door. Put on a dust mask, earplugs and safety glasses, then turn on the leaf blower and blow out the dust and debris. Use the leaf blower to get under workbenches and to clean off the benches themselves. If you don't own a leaf blower, you may be able to use your shop vacuum by connecting the hose to the exhaust port. This cleaning method works great for screen porches, too.

The right stuff for rust
• Use the right rust stain remover
  All-purpose cleaners won't remove rust stains from sinks, tubs and toilets, even with a lot of elbow grease. The trick is to use a stain remover like Super Iron Out ($10 for a 5-lb. jug). Look for a rust stain remover or a product that contains diluted hydrochloric acid (also listed on product labels as hydrogen chloride, HCL or muriatic acid). Be careful not to use a product containing bleach—it'll set the stain. For toilets, add Super Iron Out to the water in the bowl, then clean with a stiff nylon-bristled brush. For sinks and tubs, first wet the surface with water. Apply Super Iron Out to a damp sponge (wear rubber gloves and a mask—this stuff is powerful!). Wipe the stain with the sponge until it's gone. Rinse the surface with plain water to completely remove the Super Iron Out.

Remove pet hair with duct tape
• Better than vacuuming
  That's right. We've found another use for duct tape—cleaning. The stickiness of duct tape makes it perfect for a makeshift pet hair remover and this method is faster than vacuuming. It also works on seats in vehicles. A sponge or cloth wrapped with duct tape works great for getting into corners
• Wrap duct tape around a paint roller
  Wrap duct tape around a paint roller cover, sticky side out. Roll the paint cover over furniture or carpet to pick up the pet hair. Add more tape as the surface gets full of hair.

Remove bathroom soap scum
• Scrape scum with a plastic putty knife
  Soap has a nasty way of forming a hard-to-remove film on tile in tubs and showers. You won't get rid of it by rubbing. Instead, wait for the surface to dry, then scrape off the scum with a 4-in. plastic putty knife.
• Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is magic
  For grout lines and textured surfaces, use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. To prevent soap scum buildup, stop using real soap and start using a synthetic. Chemically speaking, any soap in a liquid or gel form, and some bar soaps (Zest and Ivory), are actually synthetic soaps and much less likely to leave a tough film in your sink, shower or tub.

Spot-clean food and drink spills
• Stain pens really work
  The best way to prevent stains is to treat spills immediately. That's why pros love stain pens, like Tide to Go and the Clorox Bleach Pen Gel, which are designed to remove small stains from upholstery, grout, caulk, porcelain and clothing (avoid the bleach pens for colored fabric). Just press the tip into the stain to release the solution, then rub the tip across the stain to remove it. Inexpensive ($3) and portable, they're great at removing food and drink spills. Before applying a cleaning solution to an entire surface or fixture, first test it on a tiny area to make sure it won't damage or discolor the finish.

http://www.potholesandpantyhose.com/2012/02/organic-dishwasher-detergent/
Dishwasher Detergent
17 Feb 2012 ⋅ by Rebekah ⋅ in At Home..., Recipes, The Home Life ⋅ 76 Comments ⋅ Tags: dish detergent, dishwasher, DIY, homemade, homemade soap, organic

I am on a month long challenge to slowly rid our house of anything with nasty chemicals and large price tags. Just recently, I shared my Recipe for Facial Moisturizer.

I am concocting my own household replacements with little more than what I have on hand or what I can find at the organic market.

But the replacements must meet or exceed three important expectations for this frugal gal:
1. It must be easy to replace-no beakers or science lab experiments. Thank you.
2. It must be just as good or better than the current product I’m using and,
3. It must cost the same or less than the current product I’m using.

If the product I create passes the final test-me using it for over two plus week to make sure it doesn’t stink-then I’ll be sharing it with you. I will break down the cost for you, provide you the recipe and give you my honest opinion of the final product.

Without further ado: here is Phase 2 of ridding my house of chemicals-Organic Dishwasher Detergent.

Although this Organic Dish Detergent isn’t as cheap as the current “Best Choice” Dish detergent I’ve been using, I can rest easy knowing I’m not putting chemicals down my drain-and it cleans my dishes better.

The “Best Choice” ends up being about $.15 per load, whereas this recipe will cost about $.25 per load. I’ll show a detailed breakdown at the end of this post.

Here’s what you’ll need to make your very own Organic Dishwasher Detergent:

4 C Liquid Castille Soap (I found mine at Whole Foods for the same price you can buy it online)
1 C White Vinegar
1 C Water
1 TBS Lemon Juice
1 tsp Tea tree oil
1 Recycled Squirt Top Bottle (I used a 55 oz Ketchup Bottle)

Start by pouring the 4 Cups of Castille, 1 Cup Water and 1 Cup Vinegar into the squirt bottle.

I recommend using a funnel.

Next, add the 1 TBS Lemon Juice.

Lastly, add 1 tsp (about 7 drops) of Tea Tree Oil.

Screw the cap onto the bottle and shake thoroughly.

Make a cute label for your detergent and store in the refrigerator. Use about 2 TBS per load.

http://parentables.howstuffworks.com/slideshows/nesting/easy-inexpensive-diy-recipes-ten-common-cleaning-products/page/7/
Mold Remover

Nothing removes mold or mildew like bleach. But, if you are sensitive to bleach or don't want anyone breathing the fumes, you can get decent results using one of the recipes below (from EarthEasy.com and Natural Healthy Home Cleaning Tips) and a little old-fashioned elbow grease.

Hydrogen Peroxide Mixture

1/2 cup hydrogen peroxide (3%)
1 cup water

or

Tea Tree Oil Mixture

1 tsp. Tea Tree Oil
1 cup water

Chose one of the recipes above. Mix the two ingredients in a spray bottle. Spray the mold and mildew and let it sit for an hour. Rinse and wipe clean. You may need to scrub tough mold or mildew with a sponge or scrub brush.

http://homemakerschallenge.com/2012/03/20/how-to-clean-an-oven-without-endangering-your-life/

Cleaning the oven is one of those dreaded household tasks that most people avoid. Or at least I hope that most people avoid it, and that I’m not the only shirker. Cleaning the oven tops my list of “I-would-rather-be-bitten-by-fleas-but-I’d-better-do-it-anyway” jobs.

When faced with the chore of cleaning the oven, you essentially have 3 options:

Use a chemical spray.
Use the self-cleaning feature.
Use natural products and a little elbow grease.

I always go for option #3 because I prefer not to risk my life while cleaning my house. And choosing option #1 or #2 would definitely require risking your life.


First of all, those chemical sprays are some of the most toxic household cleaners in existence. Check out this government warning regarding oven cleaners, and see if you don’t agree. The words “usually fatal if swallowed” are enough to send me running in the opposite direction while screaming my head off.


Many people assume that the self-cleaning feature – since it presumably does not involve chemicals – is a safe choice. Not so fast. Self-cleaning ovens work by heating the oven up to 900 degrees Fahrenheit (Yes, I said 900 degrees!), reducing the residue on the walls of the oven to ash that can be wiped or dusted away. The problem is that the walls of many self-cleaning ovens are coated with Teflon or a Teflon-like product that releases toxic fumes when it’s heated to such a high temperature, not to mention that the smoke from burning grease is enough to induce an asthma attack.

Furthermore, the instructions that come with self-cleaning ovens recommend that you open windows and doors and utilize fans and vents whenever you are operating the self-cleaning feature. That’s enough for me, but if you need more convincing, how about their suggestion that you re-locate birds and small pets while the oven is cleaning itself? Apparently, birds can die from the fumes given off by a self-cleaning oven.

Some people even suggest that the self-cleaning feature is harmful to the oven itself (the above-referenced article mentionsthat repairs to the oven are often required after people run the self-cleaning cycle), which is not hard to believe, considering how hard we are asking the oven to work for several hours at a time.

So what’s a girl to do? Thankfully, there are ways to safely and effectively clean your oven without endangering your life. In fact, you have several options.

For really big jobs, you might consider a cleaning stone (also called a pumice stick or scouring stick). These are 100% natural scouring stones (shaped in a block or stick) that safely scour away even the worst build-up. They are safe for most ovens, although you may want to check your ovens’ owners manual to be sure. Just a little water and one of these blocks and you will see a sparkly new side to your oven that you forgot existed!

Another popular option is to generously sprinkle baking soda (that amazing household wonder) all over the surfaces of the oven interior, then spray it with water or vinegar. Allow it to sit overnight, then wipe clean in the morning. You may have to scrub a little, or repeat the process, until the job is done. My sister actually combines water and baking soda in a spray bottle, sprays it all over her oven surfaces, and then proceeds to use her oven. She says the heat makes all the dirt flake off with the baking soda, so when her oven cools down after baking, she just wipes it down.

If your mess is not a serious one, my favorite method is the citrus method. All you have to do is place some citrus peels (limes and lemons work particularly well) in a shallow pan and cover them with water. Place them in the oven at 350F for about 20-25 minutes (No longer or your peels will burn. Don’t ask me how I know.), then turn the oven off and allow it to cool. As soon as you can scrub at it without burning yourself, wipe away the grease with a rag or sponge.

Once your oven is clean, you will want to keep it that way! Place a large piece of aluminum foil under the coils on the bottom to catch any drips, and replace it regularly. The aforementioned citrus method is also great for oven maintenance – periodically do a citrus cleanse on your oven after you’ve baked (while the oven is still hot).