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 Beading Bracelet Tip

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Astraea

Astraea


Number of posts : 2738
Age : 62
Location : Arizona, USA
Favorite Quote : Beware the deadly donkey falling from the sky You may choose the way you live, my friend But not the way you die
Registration date : 2007-08-11

Beading Bracelet Tip Empty
PostSubject: Beading Bracelet Tip   Beading Bracelet Tip EmptyMon Nov 19, 2012 11:21 pm

http://www.modernminerals.com/beading-tips/542/

I learned two things in my class on Thursday. These may be pretty common place for some of you, but since I am just learning how to work with the seed beads they are new to me. I’m also pretty sure that they will be new to some of you as well.

To start with, the instructions said to wax the wax the Nymo or C-Lon thread. I of course asked why this is necessary. I was told that you want to wax the thread because sometimes the edges of the crystal beads are sharp. That makes sense to me, after all they are glass. After repeatedly pulling the thread through the crystal beads, the thread can start to fray. I imagine it is possible that it could also break. Tremaine recommended that if you want your piece to hold up over time, to use fireline. Fireline does not need to be waxed. So that is the first tip, if you are working with crystal beads, use Fireline.

The second tip has to do with constructing the bracelet. I think that this technique could be used in any pattern, if is it possible to work the design either direction.

I worked the bracelet from the center out, but I only used one length of thread.

The design called for 5 yards of thread.

That is a pretty long thread to work with.

So, I unwound about half of that. (I guesstimated) and then I attached the thread to the spool with a piece of tape.
Do not cut the thread.

I started the center of my design.
I brought the beads around in to a circle and then tied it.

I threaded my needle and then then passed it through the first bead.

I then made my first motif.

Once I finished the center motif, I had to weave my thread out to the edge of the design.
You can see in this picture that the piece is still attached to the spool of thread.
I then worked the first half of the bracelet.
Well, I would have, but I accidently used to much thread.
The neat thing about this particular pattern is that it is repeating, so I just continued the pattern until I had about the right length of thread to finish it off.
So in this case, I did about three quarters of the length of the bracelet instead of just half.
This is a good thing, because if I had cut it off at the half way point, I would have been wasting some of my thread.

Once I finished off the first end of the bracelet, I was ready to work the other side.

I did not need to pull off as much thread for this side, because most of the bracelet was already done.
I only unwound about a yard of thread, and then I cut it off.
I then re-threaded the needle.

The thread was still in the center of the motif, so I had to weave it back out to the edge of the bracelet so that I could continue the pattern in the reverse direction.

This required me to pay a bit more attention, because in this bracelet I am using a variety of colored fire polish beads.

Instead of all being the same, they resemble more of a fan pattern. The way the beads went on was exactly the same, I just needed to be more mindful of the colors I was using.

This is the finished bracelet. I love how much it catches the light. I can see though in this picture that I made an error in the pattern on the bottom, just to the left of the center. If you look beneath the green beads, I used one to many seed beads. That sucks. I doubt that anyone else would notice while I am wearing it though.

I really like the idea of working a piece from the center out while it is still attached to the spool. I can think of an added benefit straight off the bat. If you decide that a necklace needs more (or less length) you won’t need to restring the whole thing.
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