5 Projects for Learn to Sew - tweens

http://coatsandclarksewingsecrets.blogspot.com/2012/07/project-1strip-pieced-mini-shoulder-bag.html
Project 1:Strip Pieced Mini Shoulder Bag

Welcome to the first of in a series of 4 learn-to-sew projects by Elizabeth Hill.

Tweens love to sew with scraps. This Sew Easy Strip Pieced Mini Shoulder Bag builds on the idea of sewing small scraps together using the presser foot as the seam guide. It is a perfect project for developing good straight seams and accuracy. Once they master the steps they won’t be satisfied with just one bag!

Skills: Straight sewing and Zig Zag stitches

Materials
1 ½ yards extra wide double fold bias tape
Variety of 2 ½” wide strips brightly printed fabrics (at least 5)
1/8 yard of solid fabric for lining.
Coats and Clark Dual Duty XP™Thread

Instructions
1. Gather all supplies before you start. Mix and max your fabric for a pleasing design.

2. Cut 2 ½” strips into 7” long pieces. Arrange on table in the desired order. I used two each of 4 different fabrics and 1 really bright fabric to act as the base for a total of 9 strips.

3. After you have decided on your fabric strip arrangement begin to sew the strips together with a ¼” seam allowance. Place right sides together and stitch along the 7” edge. The arrow points to the inside edge of the presser foot. That is the seam guide for this project.

TIP If you have a mechanical sewing machine a magnet may be used as a seam guide. Don’t use it on a computer machine!
TIP Also a sturdy piece of cardboard may be taped to the machine to use as a guide.

4. Continue sewing strips long edges matching until all pieces have been sewn together.

5. The next step is pressing. Pressing from the wrong side of the fabric press seam allowances toward the outside edges on both sides.

6. This step is optional but gives a nice finished look to the bag. For students it will underscore the importance of being accurate. On the right side of the fabric topstitch 1/8” from the seam edge inside the pressed seam allowance. On my machine that was just inside the presser foot. See below.

7. Cut lining from the coordinating bright solid fabric by pinning right side down the fabric strips to the right side of the fabric lining. Pin and cut out.

TIP Don’t let students pick up the pinned fabrics for cutting. Pinning and cutting should be done while standing and with the fabrics flat on the work surface. They may complain about being tired and want to sit down, or that it’s too hard. But the cutting lines won’t be as straight and accurate if they pick up the pinned fabrics. Demonstrate how to cut fabric with the free hand gently holding down the fabric while using the scissors. The fabric isn’t glued to the table so it can be moved by gently sliding around without picking it up!

TIP If a student has sewn accurate seams then you can rotary cut a lining piece that is 7” x 17 ½”.

8. Right sides together pin the solid fabric to the striped piece of fabric. Trim if necessary so that they are the same length. Pin the top and bottom edges. Again using a ¼” seam allowance sew the lining to the outside fabric along the narrow edges.

9. Turn right side out and press the edges. Top stitch along the sewn edges if desired.

10. Pin the mini should bag together by matching both ends.
Baste sides together with a scant ¼” seam.

TIP What does scant mean? Just shy of the 1/4” seam guide. Just inside the line so to speak.

11. We are getting down to the last step. Time for the bias tape. To decide how much tape to use place bias tape over the shoulder with the same amount hanging from each side of the shoulder.

Place the bag at the ends and keep raising the bag until you have the length desired. Be sure to leave at least six inches hanging below each side. This extra will be tied below the shoulder bag once the bias tape has been sewn in place. It serves both a decorative and functional purpose.

12. Trim off any excess bias tape but don’t forget about the portions that will be tied later.

13. Before attaching bias tape to shoulder bag give the tape a nice pressing without stretching it. Don’t worry about pressing the folds out of the bias tape. Just remove any creases or fold marks from where it was wrapped around the cardboard.

14. Be sure you have extra wide double folded bias tape. Open the bias tape. You will have three folds. Beginning at the bottom of the bag pin the bias tape so that the narrow fold line is covering the basted stitch. Be sure to leave 6 inches of bias tape free for tying later. Adjust the length of the shoulder strap as needed. Now pin the other side. Again leave six inches of bias tape free at the bottom of the bag.

Starting at the bottom of the bag stitch the length of the side of the bag stitching in the first fold line. Remember to backstitch beginning and end. Do not worry about sewing the strap at this point. That will be taken care of later. Repeat on the other side.

15. Now fold the bias tape to the back of the bag and pin in place. You will have a nice finished edge on both sides of the tote bag. To secure the tape you are going to sew down the center of the bias tape with a medium width and medium length Zig zag stitch. Play with some scraps first to find the right stitch size for your bag.

16. Starting at the bottom of the bag Zig zag stitch down the middle of the bias tape being sure that you are catching all layers within the bias tape. Do not stop stitching when you get to the top of the bag instead keep on sewing over the handle and on to the other side of the bag. This will give a nice finished edge to the handle as well as the shoulder bag itself.

17. To finish the bag tie a knot on either side of the bag with the bias tape that is hanging free at the bottom of each side. Trim if necessary. If you want add colorful pony bead to the bias tape before making the knot.

18. Now your Sew Easy Strip Pieced Mini Shoulder Bag is ready to use! Just right for summer essentials like mp3 players, e- readers, and your sunglasses!

http://coatsandclarksewingsecrets.blogspot.com/2012/07/project-2-humbugs-sewing-corners.html

Project 2 Humbugs- Sewing Corners
This is the 2nd project in our Teaching Tweens to Sew Series by Elizabeth Hill

Bucket of Humbugs

Young people love to work with scraps once they learn the basics of sewing. This fun and easy project allows them to have fun and master a basic skill in the process. While making the humbugs students will be making corners. It takes practice to get the rhythm of “slowly approach the corner - stop - needle down - raise the presser foot - turn fabric- lower presser foot – resume sewing.” Making a bucket of Humbugs will give young students plenty of practice and a fun game as well. This is a great project to make and take on a baby sitting job. Toddlers love to throw humbugs.

Skills: Pinning paper patterns, Proper use of scissors, Straight lines, Corners, Clipping corners, Hand sewing.

Material needed

Scraps of fabric at least 5 inches square
Dual Duty XP™ Thread to match fabric
Polyester Fiber Fill

Instructions:

For each humbug:
1. Pin paper pattern to two layers of fabric scraps right sides touching. Cut 2 squares of fabric (5, 6, 7, or 8 inches) Graph paper is an easy way to make paper patterns for different sized Humbugs. For young sewers use a paper pattern instead of rotary cutting squares.

TIP: Students need the practice of pinning and cutting fabric. The temptation will be to pick up pinned fabric with their hands to cut. Stop bad habits before they start. Fabric will naturally pull from the paper pattern with uneven cutting as a result. Demonstrate how to hold scissors and cut fabric with one hand resting on the fabric while you navigate around the fabric. Students need to stand while cutting. Fabric is not glued to the table so it can be moved by gently sliding it along the cutting surface. Avoid picking it up off the table. Picking up fabric and patterns isn’t a major issue with small projects but it can really make a difference on larger pieces.

TIP for LEFTIES: Can you tell from this picture that I am left handed? What’s the give away? The direction of my pins. Most right handed people pin from the outside in while it is more comfortable for a lefty to pin inside out. A note to teachers: if you have left handed students practice pinning and cutting with your left hand. It’s a challenge. As a left handed teacher I have had to learn how to cut, etc with my right!

2. With right sides together sew three sides of the squares using a ¼ - inch seam allowance.

Slowly approach the corner - stop - needle down
Stop with needle down

Raise the presser foot- turn the fabric-
Raise the presser foot, leaving the needle down.

Turn Fabric.
Lower presser foot – resume sewing
Lower presser foot.

TIP Have students repeat with you several times the steps needed to navigate a corner. It may sound silly but it will help them remember this important step.

3. Match side seams from opposite sides of squares. Pin in place. Start sewing from the left side. Backstitch and stitch ¼ of the way across the Humbug.

4. Start sewing from the right side again ¼ of the way across. Backstitch at the beginning and end. This will leave an opening in the middle of the seam for turning the Humbug right sides out.
Stitch 1/4 of the way across.

Before turning clip the bottom corners outside the stitching.

TIP Explain the reason for clipping is to reduce bulk inside the corner. Demonstrate how the clip is made outside the stitching.

5. Turn right sides out and stuff Humbugs with polyester fiber fill just like making a pillow. For a heavier Humbug for outdoor play use dried beans instead of the polyester fiber fill.

6. Whipstitch the opening closed. Now you have a pyramid shaped Humbug.

7. Purchase a bucket or basket from the dollar store to go with your Humbugs. Make up your own rules for a tossing game. Different colors could be worth different points. Have fun.

http://coatsandclarksewingsecrets.blogspot.com/2012/08/project-3-sew-easy-sun-visor.html

This is the third project in our Teaching Tweens to sew series from Elizabeth Hill. The skill learned this week is sewing a curved seam.

The Sew Easy Sun Visor is easy to make and fun to coordinate with summer outfits. It’s reversible too! This project features convex and concave curves . Gentle guidance is necessary to navigate these curves.

TIP Use scraps to cut extra visor shapes for practice before you start this project. If fabric is limited make a smaller kidney bean shaped pattern for practice sew.

Skills: Pinning and cutting a paper pattern; Marking a pattern; Straight and Curved seams; and Hand Sewing.

Materials:

¼ yard cotton fabric for top
¼ yard cotton fabric for bottom
¼ medium to heavy weight fusible interfacing
½ yard ¼” wide elastic
Coats and Clark Dual Duty XP™Thread
Paper pattern

Instructions:

1. Download and create your pattern or use a commercial pattern.

Sun Visor pattern download

You can also make your own pattern by tracing the brim of a purchased sun visor rounding off the edges at the upper most curve. Foam visors from a craft store may also be used for a pattern. From this tracing you will make two pattern pieces. First trace the brim pattern as is. This will be for the interfacing. Add ½ inch seam allowance around the original drawing. This is the pattern for the visor itself.

2. Place a large dot on both sides where you will add the elastic strap for your visor. Put two small dots to mark the opening on the inside curve of the visor. This is where you will turn the visor inside out after sewing.

3. Put visor fabrics right side together on a flat cutting surface. Place paper pattern on top of the fabric. Place pins for easy cutting.

TIP This would be a good time to discuss with new students the two different ways to place pins: for pattern layout/cutting and for sewing. It’s the little things we take for granted that need to be discussed with new sewers. You also need to discuss straight grain of fabrics. You do not want this visor cut on the bias.

4. Cut two pieces of fabric for the visor brim.

5. Fabric should remain on the table surface when cutting. The left hand lightly resting on the fabric while the right hand is cutting. Left handed students will use the right hand to stabilize the fabric. Slide fabric as needed to cut around the curves.

TIP Standing is desirable while cutting because it gives you more freedom of movement and more control. Fabric and pattern have a tendency to separate if it is picked up off the table while cutting. This will give you uneven cutting lines and possible pattern distortion a bad habit to avoid developing.

6. Mark the pattern pieces for later reference by inserting a pin in the large dot. Pull back the paper pattern and mark at the base of the pin with marking pencil on the wrong side of both fabrics. Repeat this process with the small dots.

If you prefer use tracing paper and a tracing wheel to make markings.

7. Fold interfacing so you will be able to cut three or four layers at one time. Use the smaller visor pattern to cut 3 or 4 layers of fusible interfacing. Depending upon the weight of the interfacing you may need as many as 4 layers.

8. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse 1 piece of interfacing to the wrong side of the main fabric piece. Fuse 2 to 3 pieces of interfacing to the wrong side of the bottom fabric.

TIP Another teachable moment: there is a difference between ironing and pressing. When applying fusible interfacing you want to press, not iron. To press you put down and pick up the iron. Do not slide the iron along the top of the interfacing. Your interfacing may also decide to slide if you iron instead of press.

9. For the visor strap cut one piece of fabric 1 ¾” wide by 28” to 30” long.

10. With right sides together sew a ¼ inch seam along the long edge of the fabric. Turn right sides out. Press.

11. Using a safety pin at one end of the elastic work the elastic through the strap. Pin one end of the elastic to the strap edge. Pull elastic out the other end. Adjust elastic and fabric for a comfortable fit around the back of your head from the ears back. Gathers will form over the elastic. Adjust elastic for a good fit then cut and pin to the other end of the strap. Hand baste or tack elastic to the ends of the strap.

12. Place the strap on the right side of the visor where the large dots are located. Extend the strap beyond the seam allowance into the seam. Don’t skimp. You don’t want it to pull out later. To keep it from shifting during the pinning of the brim pieces, tack the strap in place with needle and thread.

13. With right sides together pin the remaining brim piece on top of the other piece. Using a ½” seam allowance begin sewing at the small dot near the right side of the visor. Continue sewing around the visor and stop at small dot. Backstitch. Check to be sure that the straps have been caught in the seam. If the interfacing has been fused neatly in the center of the brim students will be stitching along the edge the interfacing.

TIP Let students practice sewing a curve with scraps cut out with the visor pieces. They need to feel comfortable with the stop and start of sewing a curve. The important thing that they need to remember is to stop with the needle down in the fabric before they raise the presser foot to adjust fabric along the curve. And then be sure to lower the presser foot again before sewing. Sound familiar?

14. We’re almost done, but before turning the sun visor right sides out trim away ¼ inch of the seam allowance and clip into the curves to give a nice smooth curve along the visor edge.

15. Turn right side out. Press.

16. Hand sew the opening close with a whip stitch sewing close to the edges.

17. Voila! Enjoy the Sew Easy Sun Visor![b]

http://coatsandclarksewingsecrets.blogspot.com/2012/08/project-4-sew-easy-needle-case.html
Project 4 Sew Easy Needle Case.
By Elizabeth Hill

Needles seem to have this magic quality that makes them disappear without any effort. Pins are a little harder to lose but for some reason needles vanish just when you need them. This little needle case is a great project for using scraps and teaching students to take care of their sewing equipment. The Oh Sew Easy Needle Case is pretty, efficient and fits well in any sewing container. Makes a great gift for mothers and grandmothers!

Skills: Pinning and Cutting paper patterns, Straight sewing, Corners,
Clipping Corners.

Materials
Coordinating fabric scraps
Felt scraps
Paper pattern
Coats and Clark Dual Duty XP™ Thread to match
Narrow Satin Ribbon

Instructions

1. Make a paper pattern from graph paper 5” x 7”
Pin the paper pattern to the wrong side of two coordinating fabrics. Cut.

2. Cut 2 strips of ribbon 7-inches long

3. Make a paper pattern for felt insert that measures 3 ½” by 5 ½”

4. Place one fabric right side up on work surface. Place ribbons in the middle of each of the short sides extending slightly over the edge.

5. Carefully place the other piece of fabric on top of the bottom fabric and ribbon. Pin.

6. Using a ¼ -inch seam allowance sew around the outside edge leaving a 1 ½” opening on the bottom of the rectangle. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

7. Clip corners and turn right side out. Press.

8. Top stitch a slight ¼ inch from the edge of the needle case.

9. Fold in half and place felt insert in the middle of the needle case. Stitch down the middle of the felt insert.

10. Insert needles.

11. Tie ribbons in a pretty bow and now you have a safe and lovely place to store needles for every occasion.